For information on using our files, please find attached for your assistance in choosing the right tools for the job.
Check out this two part E-File Class with Elaine Watson
INM PRO DIAMOND DRILL BITS
PRO DIAMOND BITS
• CENTRELESS GROUNDED
• ELECTRO-MAGNETIC ADHESION ensures longevity
• HAND DETAILED
• SURGICAL STAINLESS STEEL
• GUARANTEED NOT TO RUST
• Large, Small, and Mini French Fill – Used to backfill pink and white acrylics (carve smile line)
• Coarse and Medium Barrel Bits – Used to shape and refine acrylic enhancements
• Buffer Barrel-Extra Fine – Used to smooth and finish acrylic enhancements
• Tapered Buffer Finisher – Used for natural nail manicures
• Tapered Small and Large Prepper – Used for natural nail and fill preparation
• Bullet – Used to remove excess product from under the nail
• Mandrels-Brass 1/8”Shank or Steel 3/32”Shank – Used with Coarse, Medium and Fine Sanding Bands – Suggested use is for gels.
KUPA E-FILE 5 OR 10 PIECE CARBIDE BITS – AVAILABLE NOW IN SILVER OR GOLD AT NAILX
RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN DRILLS AND ACRYLIC
The Structure of acrylic is Polymer, Monomer and Oxygen. Because Polymer is made up of different size round particles, air can settle in the spaces where round particles do no touch. This happens mainly because acrylic takes up to 24 hours to completely dry. Because we file on the product before it is completely cured, it is necessary to eliminate any excess vibrations that can disrupt the air that settles in the product in order to avoid MICRO SHATTERING.
Micro shattering is the break down to the product that causes cracking, air bubbles and lifting.
Electric files can cause damage to the product if they are not used properly.
Drilling can cause break down to the acrylic if the machine vibrates excessively and if the bits are not made well.
Proper equipment and techniques can avoid break down to the product
3 KEY FACTORS FOR PROPER DRILLING
1. Quality electric files with well-made hand pieces that do not vibrate
2. Bits that are made properly
3. Proper drilling technique
The most important part is the hand piece. The hand piece is designed with bearing cases that provide stability to the shaft (the part that controls the rotation of the bit) of the drill. The more bearing cases the hand piece has, the less the hand piece will vibrate.
The Baby Blue Benz and the Pink Cadi both have 5 bearing cases in the hand piece, the most the drill has to offer to the nail industry.
On average most drills in the nail industry have anywhere from 1 to 3 bearing cases.
This is important because most procedures require different speeds. There are different kinds of variable speed controls:
Turn dials or control panels with a glide bar
Machines that only allow set options. Example: high-low or 1,2,3,4
These types of machines are very limiting and are usually found only on low end machines.
Variable (Foot Control) – when the foot pedal overrides the main speed control and controls the speed the same way a car foot pedal controls the speed.
ON/OFF (Foot Control) – when the foot pedal controls the on/off switch. This makes it easier to change the bits so that you do not have to turn the machine off every time you change bits
By definition torque is the machines horsepower. This is a very important part of the drill. Without it the drill will not be efficient for the job.
Torque is the amount of resistance the drill gives when the bit is applied to the surface of the product it is trying to refine.
The Baby Blue Benz and Pink Cadi has continuous torque that allows the technician to use the machine at lower speed without sacrificing the power required to get the job done. Machines which do not have continuous torque require faster speed to compensate for their lack of power.
R.P.M. (Revolutions per Minute)
This is how many times the bit rotates in a minute and how fast the drill will run. It is important that a machine has enough speed; otherwise the machine will vibrate while doing procedures that require a lot of speed (example: shortening the nails or doing backfills)
The Pink Cad has 30,000 rpm’s making it one of the fastest in the nail industry.
When on reverse, the drill rotates counter clockwise. It also allows you to use the machine clockwise by putting it on forward. This should always be done while the power is off. Switching from forward to reverse while the machine is in motion can prematurely wear out the motor. Reverse is often used with left-handed people or for technicians using it on their opposite hand. Although it is recommended that all technicians use the machine on forward.
PRO DIAMOND BITS
The bits you choose are just as important as the machine you buy. It is essential that your bit runs true in order to prevent vibration that cause micro shattering.
This process is called ‘centreless grounding’ which means that the bit will be perfectly concentric.
PRO BITS are made with CENTRELESS GROUNDING
If the bit you choose has an uneven surface or any extra particles left on from the adhering process, micro shattering can occur. This can also cause the product to have extra lines that are impossible to remove without the use of a hand file, which creates extra work. Extra particles on the rim of the bit can cause trauma to the cuticle.
PRO BITS re made with a special ELECTRO-MAGNETIC adhering process to insure uniformity and to increase the longevity of the bit.
PRO BITS are HAND DETAILED to aid in the prevention of trauma to the nail and cuticle.
PRO BITS are made with SURGICAL STAINLESS STEEL and are GUARENTEED not to rust.
If the bit you are using is not made with stainless steel the bit will rust and wear out much faster.
PRO DIAMOND BITS come in a variety of grits starting from extra-fine to extra-coarse.
Carbides are the most aggressive and need to be handled with care. Carbides should be centre-less grounded to perform properly. Carbide is a compound of metals that have been cut with flutes that shave the product instead of grinding. Because of the way they are cut, it is best to use them in one motion across the nail to prevent etching of the product that will leave a rough surface. They should be made with compounds that do not rust. Carbides are often dipped in plated materials that are not rust proof and that shorten the life of the bit.
PRO CARBIDE BITS
Are Swiss made from durable TUNGSTEN STEEL ensuring long-lasting use and uncompromising performance. Their CROSSCUT design results in less friction and vibrations, fast filing and a smooth finish.
ELECTRIK SLYDE is an oil-based solution specially formulated for electric files. It is fragrance and colour free to prevent clogging to the hand piece and bits. It was designed to cushion the cuticle from the bit, minimise friction to avoid heat build-up and eliminates filing dust.
DEMONSTRATIONS OF PROCEDURES
1. Sanitise your client’s hands
2. Remove polish using polish remover
3. Push back cuticle using a Cuti – Pusher
4. SPEED 10,000 – 12,000 rpm’s (2nd light)
BIT – French Fill Diamond Large Size
A. Holding the drill bit parallel to the finger nail, place the side edge at the new smile line, drill straight down, and make your first line.
NOTE: We do this to see how much product is on the nail so that we know how far down to ho. You want it to be at least 75 to 80 percent through to the natural nail.
B. Place the bit to either side of the smile line and trace the smile line to meet the centre mark you have already made. Continue following the line through to the other side to complete the smile line.
C. Using the bottom half of the bit, angle your drill to a downward slant, put the edge of the bit up against the trench line to allow the bottom half of the bit to clean out the residual acrylic to eliminate any shadows. NOTE: You may need to adjust the bit before step 3 to allow more room on the shank for longer nails.
5. SPEED 4,500 – 6,000 rpm’s (1st light)
BIT – Prepper Large Barrel
A. Place the bit parallel to the nail bed on the acrylic closest to the cuticle and remove any fill lines that might appear.
B. Drill on the rim of the loose product in the same direction until loose product gives – this will help eliminate fill lines.
C. Drop speed of machine to lowest speed (2,000rpm’s) and use the bit complete parallel to the natural nail and lightly go around the cuticle to prep the natural nail for a fill. NOTE: If you are not comfortable doing this step, use an INM solo and do it by hand.
6. Apply Prep Step to cleanse and dehydrate the nail plate.
7. Apply white acrylic to trenched out area (allow product to flow into trenched out smile line).
8. Apply small to medium ball of pink acrylic near cuticle to fill back of nail.
9. SPEED 25,000 -30,000 rpm’s
BIT – Coarse Barrel
A. Shorten or trim the nail. Hold the drill vertical and drill straight across the nail from one side to the other.
10. SPEED 7,500 – 12,000 rpm’s (2nd light)
BIT – Coarse Bit
A. Apply a drop of ELECTRIK SLYDE to the nail.
B. Refine and shape the nail. Hold the drill horizontal with the bit parallel to the nail.
C. Shape the nail by going back and forth across the nail to refine the build of the application. NOTE: It is important that you keep your bit flat on the nail without angling it up at all. IF you have even the slightest bit of angle while you’re doing this step, it will leave file lines that will not come out unless the steps are repeated properly.
D. Cleaning the sidewall, keep the bit parallel to sidewall (the long portion of the bit should sit next to the side of the nail). Start at the top of the free edge and drill straight alongside the nail until you reach the skin. NOTE: The bits are hand detailed and do not have diamond bit particles on the top of the barrel therefore, there is no risk of cutting the skin if you get close up onto the skin. The ELECTRIK SLYDE, will also help protect the skin so that you do not cut or burn them.
11. SPEED 4,500 – 6,000 rpm’s (1st light)
BIT – Coarse Barrel or Prepper
A. Detailing the cuticle area, keeping the bit parallel to the nail bed, use the bit around the cuticle, making a U-turn (start from one side and work the bit down the side, across the bottom of the acrylic near the cuticle, and up the other side). NOTE: If you are nervous to use the bit near the cuticle, apply another drop of ELECTRIK SLYDE to help cushion the area.
12. SPEED 9,000 -15,000 rpm’s (2nd or 3rd light)
BIT – Buffer Bit
A. Bringing the nail to a smooth finish, apply one drop of ELECTRIK SLYDE to the nail. Keeping the bit parallel to the nail, make the same motions back and forth horizontally until the surface is smooth. Use the bit in the same motion as done in step 11 to seal up the cuticle. NOTE: This bit is very safe to use and WILL NOT hurt the cuticle so feel free to get right up next to the cuticle and skin. Remember not to angle the bit or it will leave file lines like the coarse bit can if used wrong.
13. SPEED 6,000 – 7,500 rpm’s (1st or 2nd light)
BIT – Bullet
A. Cleaning the backside of the nails free edg, hold the bit parallel to the nail and remove the extra product that is on the backside of the nail. NOTE: Try to avoid drilling on the natural nail as this causes premature lifting from the back of the nail.
14. SPEED 6,000 – 7,000 rpm’s (1st or 2nd light)
BIT – Chamois
A. Buff nail with double sided foam DUET
B. Apply drop of BUFFING MAGIC to the nail.
C. Hold finger in downward position and use chamois vertical on the nail until shiny. NOTE: The chamois gets hot fast so use the bit in three-second intervals.
15. FILE-SOLO (shaper/Finisher)
A. Taper sidewalls and straighten top of nail.
1. Clean feet, but do not soak
2. Remove polish
3. Shorten toenails with clippers
4. Push back cuticle with INM Pro Pusher
5. Apply Electrik Slyde to top of nails
6. Remove ridges and overgrowth of the cuticle with tapered Buffer Finisher. At approximately 5,000 – 6,000 rpm’s, keep the bit flat to the surface of the nail. Remove surface ridges by going across the nail horizontally, beginning at the top and working the bit down toward the cuticle. After the ridges are buffed smooth, use the bit to go up around the cuticle. Remove the overgrowth of the cuticle. Make sure to do this without angling the bit. The rim of the bit should not dig into the nail
7. Buff the nails with the two-side foam DUET Buffer
8. At approximately 10,000 – 15,000 rpm’s, use the pedicure bit to remove any dry skin and calluses that appear. Do this by moving the bit back and forth on top of the surface of the area that needs smoothing
9. After the surface is removed, use the finer grit of a foot file to smooth the skin
10. Soak the feet and continue pedicure with own procedures.